Cruising the Eastern Arctic – Ilulissat

I have been on safari in Africa; I’ve crossed the Andes and walked the streets of Paris, London, Rome, Athens, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Bangkok and Buenos Aires. But August 2nd was one of the most memorable and magical travel days in my life. It was a glorious morning as we awakened in Disko Bay off the central coast of West Greenland and gazed out at the massive icebergs littering the calm ocean surface. Disko Bay or Qeqertarsuup tunua in Greenlandic, is considered a southeastern inlet of Baffin Bay.

Overnight, we had sailed north from Sisimiut (which was the subject of my last blog) and navigated around Disko Island into this bay or “bugt”, as it’s called in Danish.  That massive white expanse covering most of Greenland (the largest island in the world) on the Google Earth photo map below is ice, some 1.71 million km² or 660,000 square miles. Greenland’s ice sheet (also known as Inland Ice) covers 79% of the country and is second only to the Antarctic ice sheet, which is ten times as big. Together, Greenland and Antarctica contain almost three-quarters of the world’s fresh water. At its thickest point, Greenland’s ice sheet is 3 km (1.79 mi) thick with a volume estimated at 2.85 million km3 (684,000 mi3).  Greenland has more than 100 glaciers (e.g. Kangerlussuaq, Helheim, Petermann, Hiawatha, Kong Oscar, Midgard) that flow out through its rocky margins each summer and send icebergs into the sea, but the Jakobshavn Icefjord or Isbrae (Danish) – Sermeq Kujalleq (Greenlandic) is the biggest, and the one we were here to see.

Fishboats were out in the bay, its waters rich in halibut, cod, Atlantic redfish, Arctic char and wolffish.

These guys just heading out were as curious about us as we were about them.

I loved the cheerful colours of this little fishing boat….

….. and the contented look of the fisherman about to head to work.

Turning towards shore, we saw the village of Ilulissat with its colourful houses arrayed up the rocky hillside under a massive mountain wall. (Greenland has myriad mountain ranges, many still unnamed). Established as a trading post by Danish merchant Jakob Severin in 1741, it was originally known as Jakobshavn. The third-largest city in Greenland after Nuuk and Sisimiut, Ilulissat has a population of 4,670 (2020).

Kalaallisut is the Greenlandic language of West Greenland (East Greenland has its own) and the Kalaallisut word for “icebergs” is Ilulissat! So there was no question why we were here; indeed, this is the town closest to the Ilulissat Icefjord UNESCO World Heritage Site that we were about to visit.

The hotel in the distance is one of three in town catering to tourists and scientists. In 2015, there were 22,000 international tourists and 15,000 local tourists, with the majority coming in July and August.

A plane passed overhead bringing passengers from Iceland as part of a seasonal schedule.

When Zion Church (Zion’s Kirke) was dedicated as a Lutheran church in 1779, it was the largest man-made building in Greenland. According to the Geological Survey of Denmark website, “During the Napoleonic Wars supplies from Denmark were limited, and the time from 1807 to 1814 in particular was a period of great hardship. In Jakobshavn, the hunters were forced to re-melt the lead from the roof and windows of the Zion Church in order to make rifle bullets.” It was moved to this location from lower ground in 1929, and services continue there today.

I admired these rocks at the shoreline, below. According to Canadian geologist, Dr. Marc St-Onge, Senior Emeritus Scientist at the Geological Survey of Canada, who has worked throughout the Arctic: “The bedrock geology of the Ilulissat region comprises dominantly 2.84–2.76 billion years old Archean orthogneiss (gneiss derived from a plutonic precursor), reworked and metamorphosed 1.88 billion years ago by the Nagssugtoqidian orogenic belt.”  In fact, Greenland has some of the oldest known Archean rocks on the planet, with a zircon crystal from the tonalitic gneiss protolith (the original rock before being metamorphosed) at Amîtsoq near Nuuk U/Pb-dated to 3.872 Ga (Giga annum or billion years ago). Incidentally, the Greenland rock is younger than the oldest-known exposed rock in the world, the Acasta Gneiss dated at 4.02 Ga and found in 1983 by Dr. St-Onge and his geologist wife Dr. Janet King 300 km north of Yellowknife, in Canada’s Northwest Territories. 

Once docked, we set off on foot to the outskirts of Ilulissat, passing the inevitable sled dogs on the way.

Before long, we arrived at the boardwalk leading to the edge of the icefjord.  The boardwalk passes through the Sermermiut Valley, which was once an Inuit settlement. At 1.4 k (.87 mile) in length, it is a pleasant, easy hike, but one with a spectacular terminus that showcases one of the planet’s most awe-inspiring phenomena.

I marked the Google Earth map below with yellow arrows to show the boardwalk and its relationship to town.

It is simply impossible to describe how thrilling it was to walk through this gentle meadow with its delicate little ecosystems of plants and ancient rock toward this massive parade of glacial ice slipping, sliding and booming towards the ocean.

In 2004, as it was creating the International Heritage Site designation, UNESCO described the site and determined that it met two criteria:

The combination of a huge ice sheet and a fast-moving glacial ice-stream calving into a fjord covered by icebergs is a phenomenon only seen in Greenland and Antarctica. Ilulissat offers both scientists and visitors easy access for close view of the calving glacier front as it cascades down the ice sheet and into the ice-choked fjord. The wild and highly scenic combination of rock, ice and sea, along with the dramatic sounds produced by the moving ice combine to present a memorable natural spectacle.

The Ilulissat Icefjord is an outstanding example of a stage in the Earth’s history:  the last ice age of the Quaternary Period. The ice-stream is one of the fastest (40 m per day) and most active in the world. Its annual calving of over 46 km3 of ice accounts for 10% of the production of all Greenland calf ice, more than any other glacier outside Antarctica. The glacier has been the object of scientific attention for 250 years and, along with its relative ease of accessibility, has significantly added to the understanding of ice-cap glaciology, climate change and related geomorphic processes.”

As usual, I was distracted with all the photography opportunities in the meadows flanking the boardwalk, and had to hurry along to catch up.  (Thankfully, my friend Anne snapped this photo of me, something that rarely happens when I travel.) It was so warm that lovely day in the Arctic, I didn’t need the jacket I’d brought along. However, according to the World Metereological Organization, Greenland also boasts the lowest temperature ever recorded in the Northern Hemisphere, -69.6 C (-93.3 F) on December 22, 1991 at Klinck, with an elevation of 3,105 metres near the topographic summit of the Greenland Ice Sheet.

The calved ice loomed ahead, but I also loved seeing all the plants, like ubiquitous Scheuchzer’s cotton grass (Eriophorum scheuchzeri)…..

….. with its fluffy white fruiting heads.

The meadow was a tapestry of heath plants, blueberries, mouse-ear chickweed, willow and….

…. dwarf birch (Betula glandulosa).

In the damper spots, mushrooms emerged from luxuriant carpets of moss.

Greenland bellflower grew in drier places, (Campanula rotundifolia subsp. gieseckiana).  

Alpine catchfly (Viscaria alpina) showed off its magenta flowers.

A little Lapland longspur (Calcarius laponicus) eyed me as it ate a seed.

Nearby, creeping crowberry (Empetrum nigrum) was exhibiting serious browning, a result of warm weather.

Tufted saxifrage (Saxifraga caespitosa) is one of ten saxifrage species that grow in the meadows, according to the UNESCO list of flora.

Everyone had their cameras out.

The boardwalk took us down near the meadow’s edge, where the sheer majesty of the icefjiord was on display.

You could view it from there….

….. or from the top of the rocky cliff overlooking the fjord. This was one of my favourite photos from the entire trip, simply showing the scale of the massive icebergs clogging the fjord.

Sometimes the word “spectacular” is just not descriptive enough.

There were stairs to a higher location for those who wanted a different vantage point. In fact, there are a few marked trails for those who want to venture further on the site.

From up there, I looked down on Adventure Canada’s intrepid photographer, Dennis Minty, whose photos from the various expeditions are simply beautiful.

If we ventured too far down on the rocks, someone would yell: “Move up further. If one of those icebergs cracks and breaks away, the tsunami would wash you away.”

Visitors are also warned not to stand on the rocky beach along the fjord.

To get an idea of how daunting the tsunami waves can be, have a look at this video showing a massive iceberg cracking, then turning over: 

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According to Wikipedia, “Some 35 billion tonnes of icebergs calve off and pass out of the fjord each year. Icebergs breaking from the glacier are often so large (up to a kilometer in height) that they are too tall to float down the fjord and lie stuck on the bottom of its shallower areas, sometimes for years, until they are broken up by the force of the glacier and icebergs further up the fjord.” 

What we were looking at from our vantage point was the mouth of the glacier with its iceberg-clogged fjord. We couldn’t actually see the ice sheet itself, but it must be something to fly above its massive expanse and gaze down in summer at the meltwater lakes and rivers, as shown in the NASA photo below. Research on the ice sheet takes many forms, from Landsat and Grace Satellites with radar probing imagery to determine ice loss to long-range high-tech-equipped flights over its surface.  A project called GreenDrill planned for an area near the Hiawatha Glacier in north Greenland aims to drill down into bedrock to determine the last time the ice disappeared. Last year, researchers discovered that, rather than retreating as it had done for the past few decades, Jakobshavn Icefjord had actually slowed, re-advanced and thickened for three consecutive years, mainly due to colder ocean temperatures at the outlet in Disko Bay.

Photo by Maria-José Viñas-NASA Earth Science News Team

The photo below shows Swiss Camp, run by the Cooperative Institute for Research in Environmental Sciences at the University of Colorado Boulder and set up to study the Jakobshavn glacier. Tragically, its long-time director Konrad Steffen fell into a crevasse on the ice sheet and drowned on August 8, 2020.  

Photo by Lino Schmid & Moira Prati – Licensed under
Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International

Operation Ice Bridge has collected data from Jakobshavn Glacier itself for many years. In the video below, you can see the actual calving front.

I love this photo because it contrasts two different planetary timescales:  Archaean rock that is more than 1.8 billion years old and icebergs containing frozen water that might be tens of thousands years old.   

To view a truly stunning gallery of images from Ilulissat, have a look at this site featuring the work of photographer Kristjan Fridriksson.

Returning from the icefjord to town was a little anticlimactic, to say the least, but it was lovely to come down to earth at the museum that was the home of famous Greenland explorer Knud Rasmussen (1879-1933).

The son of a Danish missionary and his Danish-Inuit wife, Rasmussen became an explorer and anthropologist, making seven expeditions between 1912-33 throughout Greenland and Arctic Canada as far west as Nome, Alaska.

Rasmussen was the first European to cross the Northwest Passage via dog sled.

The front door of the Rasmussen museum opens onto a spectacular view of Disko Bay – a view that likely remains mostly unchanged from his days in the house.

We inspected a typical Greenland sod house at the front of the Rasmussen museum.

Then we walked to the top of Ilulissat for a good view of the bay and a quick stroll through the residential neighbourhoods.

This house might have won the Greenland colour prize, but all the houses seemed to celebrate brilliant colour – not surprising in a place where winter lasts most of the year.

The ubiquitous false mayweed (Tripleurospermum maritimum) was in full bloom. Such a lovely native, adapted to growing in the salty air and soil of the far north seaside.

After lunch on the ship, it was time to head out on a Disko Bay zodiac excursion. The captain in this zodiac was marine biologist Deanna Leonard-Spitzer, who did the whale-spotting on our expedition.

We got as close as we could to the big calved icebergs. Given that only 10% of an iceberg is above the water surface, you get an idea here of the size of these monsters.

Photographing icebergs is a little addictive.

Although I had been warm enough to take off my coat walking down the icefjord boardwalk, being out on the water was definitely cooler.

Seagulls enjoyed perching on the icebergs as they fished. I think these are Iceland gulls (Larus glaucoides glaucoides).

For the most part, icebergs are sparkling white with the accumulated snow from… who knows how many winters?  Icebergs, after all, are just massive aggregations of winter snow that has fallen on the ice sheet – packed, condensed, frozen, surface melted, refrozen, repeat, repeat, repeat – before finally calving off from glaciers in chunks and floating away in the ocean While 96.5% of earth’s water is saline, ice sheets, glaciers and permanent snow account for 1.7% (the balance is groundwater and lakes, etc.) with the Greenland and Antarctic ice sheets accounting for 68.7% of earth’s freshwater. That massive volume combined with an increase in global warming  resulting in melting of the ice sheets leading to sea level rise is one of the major focuses of climate scientists today.

We cruised past an iceberg beginning to melt and noticed the soot embedded in the snow. Scientists have noticed an increase in darkened snow on the ice sheets (and even in the snow atop the Himalayas) due to soot from forest fires and pollution; that darkness becomes a positive feedback loop by reducing the albedo in the ice sheet and absorbing more solar radiation, resulting in faster melting.

At the base of the iceberg, you could see the air bubbles that form part of the iceberg’s structure. These bubbles, trapped between snow layers year after year become part of the ice. When cored as part of ice sheet research, they give scientists many clues as to the composition of the atmosphere at the time they were formed, and now.

For an excellent article on The Secrets in Greenland’s Ice Sheet, read Jon Gertner’s masterful 2015 story in the New York Times Magazine. He has also written a book called The Ice at the End of the World, available in paperback from Penguin Random House.

After our zodiac tour and dinner on the ship, we were treated to a dance party by Adventure Canada’s entertainer, Thomas Kovacs.  These social events were such fun and the resource staff participated on each occasion….

…. including photographer Dennis Minty, left, and now-retired Adventure Canada founder Matthew Swan, right, whose daughter Cedar Swan is now CEO of the company

While I loved hearing them sing, as the skies darkened I found myself drawn to the quiet of the nearby deck where I was transfixed by the icebergs, now dark mauve in the golden twilight, the seabirds wheeling, the Greenland coastal mountains hulking behind.

I felt so privileged to have seen this remarkable place, to have the opportunity to glimpse the setting for one of earth’s most critical and endangered systems, and to expand in a small way my understanding of the Arctic.

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This is the 6th in my Eastern Arctic blog series. Be sure to read about:

Iqaluit

Butterfly Bay and the Waters off Baffin Island

Pangnirtung

Sunneshine Fjord

Sisimiut

Both Sides Now

I am a cloud lover. Sometimes I just stand there on a summer day staring up at fluffy white clouds that seem to give definition and personality to the massive blue sky.  But clouds aren’t just pretty things: they are combinations of water vapor and the microscopic particles of dust and dirt (cloud condensation nuclei or cloud seeds measuring 100-times smaller than a raindrop) that exist throughout earth’s atmosphere. Depending on their elevation, these aerosols condense as liquid water or ice, i.e. floating cloud droplets. Mixed with air, they become clouds.

The word “cloud” is interesting. It didn’t originate in Greek or Latin, as many of our English words did. It actually came from the ground – specifically, from the word “clod”. According to Eymology Online, it comes from the Old English word “clud”, which meant a ‘mass of rock, hill,’ related to clod.

“The modern sense ‘rain-cloud, mass of evaporated water visible and suspended in the sky’ is a metaphoric extension that begins to appear c. 1300 in southern texts, based on similarity of cumulus clouds and rock masses. The usual Old English word for ‘cloud’ was weolcan. In Middle English, skie also originally meant ‘cloud.’ The last entry for cloud in the original rock mass sense in Middle English Compendium is from c. 1475”.

It’s not easy to imagine, given our modern association of cloud as a meteorological phenomenon, that in the High Middle Ages it was just people looking up at fluffy things in the sky whose shapes reminded them of rocks and hills.

Speaking of rocks and hills, there are clouds that cling to the summits of mountains, like my photo below taken in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park, New Zealand (my blog). They’re called “orographic clouds”. According to Cloud Atlas, “As airflow encounters a mountain or hill, it is forced to rise; this is referred to as orographic lift. If the flow is sufficiently humid, clouds form on the windward side of mountains and are called orographic clouds.”

While hiking under Mount Cook, I was transfixed by the clouds that appeared above it. A child might say that the cloud on the left, below, looks like a whale, but what about the cloud on the right? For me, it was as if a South Pacific mythological deity had ascended into the atmosphere to keep an eye on things below.

Metaphors get updated all the time, of course, and “cloud” has taken on a new meaning in the past few decades. For those of us who hoard digital images and files, we no longer use overflowing metal file cabinets; instead we store them in “the cloud” – essentially a lot of virtual digital warehouses. According to Wikipedia, cloud computing was first referenced in 1994: “The use of the cloud metaphor for virtualized services dates at least to General Magic (an American software and electronics company) in 1994, where it was used to describe the universe of “places” that mobile agents in the Telescript (a programming language) environment could go. As described by Andy Hertzfeld: ‘The beauty of Telescript,’ says Andy, ‘is that now, instead of just having a device to program, we now have the entire Cloud out there, where a single program can go and travel to many different sources of information and create sort of a virtual service.’ The use of the cloud metaphor is credited to General Magic communications employee David Hoffman, based on long-standing use in networking and telecom.”

My cloud photography often seems to go hand-in-hand with oceans and sunsets on holidays in far-away lands, often accompanied by a nice tropical drink. In Bermuda late one November, the western sky as seen from the Pompano Beach Club was a picture-perfect postcard of cumulus clouds above a turquoise Atlantic Ocean. All clouds contain water vapour; they are white because the sun’s light is white. But the more water vapour they contain, the darker they are.

The next day, during an afternoon downpour, it was an angry tumult of dark-grey nimbostratus clouds (“nimbus” is Latin for rainstorm)…..

…. but by evening the skies in the west had begun to clear, leaving the sun to set beneath clouds that had begun to break apart or “diffuse” in cloud lingo.

When I stayed at the Torrance Barrens Dark Sky Preserve one summer evening to photograph (just me and the mosquitoes in 4,700 acres!), I was rewarded with a tapestry of feathery cirrus clouds in a pink sky over Highland Pond, cross-cut in the lower atmosphere with the contrails of airplanes long gone from the scene. Contrail is short for “condensation trail” and it is a line-shaped cloud, usually comprised of ice crystals, formed from an airplane’s engine exhaust at cruising altitude, i.e. 5-6 miles above the earth’s surface. Another phrase is “vapour trail”.

Cumulus…. nimbostratus…. cirrus. And those are just three types of the numerous sub-divisions of high-altitude, medium-altitude and low clouds. How did a “metaphoric extension” for rocks and hills become so… scientific? Turns out that one man took it upon himself to be the namer of clouds. Luke Howard (1772-1864) was a British chemist and amateur meteorologist (aren’t we all?) who, at the age of 30 in a paper he read to a scientific society, expounded on his three categories of clouds, all with Latin names. Cirrus meant ‘hair’ or ‘fibre’, the wispy clouds. Cumulus meant ‘pile’ or ‘heap’, those big pillows of cloud. Stratus meant ‘sheet’ or ‘layer’. He suggested that cloud names could be compounded to define transitions between the cloud categories. Because of his interest in botany, Howard gave the clouds binomial names, as Linnaeus had done with plants. Today we call the study of clouds “nephology”.

Last month, I awoke early on holiday in Florida to photograph the sunrise. When I turned to look further north up the beach, I saw this spectacular rose-pink parade of little clouds being lit by the dawn. In nephology parlance, these cotton balls are cirrocumulus clouds.

As we checked into our hotel in Bali, Indonesia one year, an impending storm brought sunset-pink towers of cumulonimbus rain clouds.

In New Zealand’s Doubtful Sound, part of Fiordland National Park, the banks of clouds and mountains receding behind our ship seemed to be a symphony of blues and greys.

We stayed overnight on the ship in Doubtful Sound (I blogged about this wonderful experience), and the next morning, the steep fiord slopes were partly obscured by low, misty cloud.

At my cottage on Lake Muskoka north of Toronto, we often experience fog as the temperature gradient between the lake and air changes, especially in autumn. On this warm September morning, the air meeting the cold lake caused convection fog that obscured the nearby shore but…..

….. created moisture drops that made spider webs highly visible things of beauty. According to Wikipedia, “Fog is a visible aerosol consisting of tiny water droplets or ice crystals suspended in the air at or near the earth’s surface. Fog can be considered a type of low-lying cloud, usually resembling stratus, and is heavily influenced by nearby bodies of water, topography and wind conditions.”   But for poet Carl Sandburg, it was “fog” that came in “on little cat feet…. not low-lying cloud.

If low-lying clouds called fog can create magic, this is one of the magical results.

I honestly don’t know what was going on with this two-layer stratus cloud over Greenland’s diminishing ice sheet that I photographed in Kangerlaussaq, Greenland in 2013. I have tried to understand the “albedo” effect (the lower the albedo, the more solar radiation is absorbed by earth) as it relates to cloud covering the ice, and the difference in winter (ice-phase clouds), spring transition (mixed-phase clouds),and summer (liquid-phase clouds). Let’s just say it’s complicated.

Sometimes it’s enough just to enjoy the clouds without analyzing them too much. This is sunset in Cozumel, Mexico with a fishing boat….

…. and sunset with a dive boat returning to the harbour. In both scenes, I think clouds enhance the image considerably.

On the Osa Peninsula in Costa Rica, I was impressed with how the setting sun illuminated the western sky beyond the stratus clouds that would make our one-week stay wetter than the entire preceding rainy season. (See my blog here.)

Back in Canada at our cottage on Lake Muskoka, I loved seeing an actual “silver lining” as these cumulonimbus storm clouds drifted west toward the setting sun.

And one night at the lake as I was photographing a full moon, I was happy to see that broken clouds were illuminated, too. For me, this made a more interesting image.

So far, I’ve shown you an assortment of clouds photographed from earth, or “from down” as Joni Mitchell wrote in my featured song in this #mysongscapes blog. But I’ve also made a habit of exploring clouds “from up”. It’s one reason why I enjoy sitting at the airplane window, especially on shorter flights where I don’t feel the need to sleep. In fact, I wrote an entire blog called Six Miles Up: Viewing Earth from Seat 45K; it worked well because there were no clouds all the way across Canada, until we reached the Rocky Mountains. Then we came to those familiar orographic clouds….

…… clinging to the tops of the rugged peaks.

As we approached Vancouver airport, I looked down through the clouds and saw a circle of big freighters anchored in the Strait of Georgia, ….

….. then we were right inside the nimbostratus clouds with raindrops streaking the windows as we descended. I know airplanes have instruments and landing is pretty much done by the numbers (and the air traffic controllers), but I always gulp a little landing in rain clouds like this.

Even on a much shorter journey at lower altitude, like this turbo-prop flight from Montreal to Toronto on Porter Airlines, it was fun to look down through clouds at the quilt-like patches of eastern Ontario farmland in mid-summer. Notice the big shadows cast by the clouds. When I’m photographing at ground level on partly sunny days, I wait for those momentary clouds to appear and shade my scene.

Last month we flew to Florida to visit kind friends who invited us to escape winter for a few days. I loved seeing the turquoise ocean off the east coast and the dark shadow splotches of the clouds on the surface.

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Leaving Denver for Toronto last June, there was rain on the airplane windows and a dark nimbostratus sky but…..

…. after climbing through a little turbulence in the troposphere (ground level to 30,000 feet), the cumulonimbus cloud layer was beneath us and feathery cirrus clouds above. I love that we flew right through that contrail!

By the time we were at cruising speed in the lower levels of the stratosphere (30,000 to 39,000 feet), the sun was setting gloriously behind us in the west.

Flying over the tundra islets of Nunavut towards the capital Iqaluit in 2013, I was intrigued by the peaked clouds that looked like mountaintops in the sky.

As we were flying in South Africa in 2014, I was excited when a break in the clouds let me catch my first glimpse of Cape Town below.

In a small plane flying from the Serengeti to Arusha, Tanzania back in 2007, I peered down through the clouds to see the active volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai and its prominent cinder cones. That was a truly thrilling moment.

And flying to Santiago from Toronto on an overnight flight in March 2019, I was puzzled by the uniform clouds covering the ocean below us as dawn broke over the Andes to the east. It was only later as we were touring wineries on the coast that I learned that this is the normal sea fog cloud layer caused by the cold, low-salinity Humboldt Current flowing north from the southern tip of Chile to northern Peru. The cool fog is so dependable that the vintners count on it to assist them in the cultivation of their grapevines. The Humboldt Current also produces 18-20% of the world’s marine fish catch.

That brings me to the end of my “up” and “down” photography of clouds, but there is another dimension that I try to capture when I see it. It’s the reflection of clouds on the surface of water. It’s another way of looking “at clouds from both sides now”, and the one situation that perfectly defines Joni Mitchell’s “cloud illusion”.

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I have a lot of favourite Joni Mitchell songs (especially the first of #mysongscapes blogs, Night in the City), but her most iconic might be the one she wrote on a plane. As she said of Both Sides Now (1967), “I was reading Saul Bellow’s ‘Henderson the Rain King’ on a plane and early in the book Henderson the Rain King is also up in a plane. He’s on his way to Africa and he looks down and sees these clouds. I put down the book, looked out the window and saw clouds too, and I immediately started writing the song. I had no idea that the song would become as popular as it did”.

If clouds were originally thought of as metaphoric extensions of hills and mountains, in Joni’s Both Sides Now clouds become a metaphoric extension of love and life. Like clouds, love can be viewed from up or down, from the high or the low, from the beginning or the end. Like clouds, love itself is illusory and its vagaries and responsibilities threaten one’s independence. “Don’t give yourself away”. Though published in 1967 (Clouds, the album containing the song, won a Grammy in 1970), the song was probably written in 1966 when she was just 23. By then she had dropped out of art college in Alberta at the age of 20, left home, and begun singing in coffee houses and at hootenannies. At 21, she had a baby whom she gave up for adoption (she would sing about that in the song Chinese Cafe/Unchained Melody and ultimately reunite years later with her adult daughter) just months before marrying folksinger Chuck Mitchell and taking his name.  The lyrics of Both Sides Now were prophetic for in Joni’s life there would be two divorces – Mitchell in 1967 and Larry Klein, whom she married in 1982 and divorced in 1994 – and many failed relationships – among others, singers James Taylor and Graham Nash who would both perform at her 75th birthday concert in 2018, entitled Both Sides Now. “I’ve looked at love from both sides now/From give and take, and still somehow/It’s love’s illusions I recall/I really don’t know love at all.

My favourite version of ‘Both Sides Now’ isn’t by Joni Mitchell or by Judy Collins, who recorded it before Joni herself did. Nor is it by the other 80+ artists who have recorded it, including Frank Sinatra, Neil Diamond, Pete Seeger, Dianne Reeves, Dolly Parton, Paul Anka and Herbie Hancock. As a fan of harmony, the version I love is a 1991 duet between Paul Young and the Irish band Clannad for the movie ‘Switch’.  Have a listen (and try to ignore the lyrics that read “flows” instead of “floes”).

BOTH SIDES, NOW (Joni Mitchell, 1967, Gandalf Publishing Co.)

Rows and floes of angel hair
And ice cream castles in the air
And feather canyons everywhere
I’ve looked at clouds that way

But now they only block the sun
They rain and snow on everyone
So many things I would have done
But clouds got in my way

I’ve looked at clouds from both sides now
From up and down, and still somehow
It’s cloud illusions I recall
I really don’t know clouds at all

Moons and Junes and Ferris wheels
The dizzy dancing way you feel
As every fairy tale comes real
I’ve looked at love that way

But now it’s just another show
You leave ’em laughing when you go
And if you care, don’t let them know
Don’t give yourself away

I’ve looked at love from both sides now
From give and take, and still somehow
It’s love’s illusions I recall
I really don’t know love at all 

Tears and fears and feeling proud
To say “I love you” right out loud
Dreams and schemes and circus crowds
I’ve looked at life that way

But now old friends are acting strange
They shake their heads, they say I’ve changed
Well something’s lost, but something’s gained
In living every day

I’ve looked at life from both sides now
From win and lose and still somehow
It’s life’s illusions I recall
I really don’t know life at all

I’ve looked at life from both sides now
From win and lose and still somehow
It’s life’s illusions I recall
I really don’t know life at all

******

This is the 14th blog in #mysongscapes series of winter 2020 that combine music I love with my photography. If you enjoyed reading it, have a look at the others beginning with

  1. Joni Mitchell’s ‘Night in the City’;
  2. Paul Simon’s ‘Kodachrome’ and my life in photography;
  3. Vietnam and Songs of Protest;
  4. Galway Bay and memories of my grandfather and Ireland;
  5. Simon and Garfunkel’s Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme;
  6. The John Denver lullaby I sang to my first grandchild, Today While the Blossoms Still Cling to the Vine.
  7. Gordon Lightfoot for a Snow Day
  8. Madame George by Van Morrison – my favourite song in the world
  9. Brown Eyed Girl(s) – Van Morrison’s classic and my black-eyed susans
  10. Raindrops – on flowers and in my gardens
  11. Miss Rumphius and the Lupines
  12. Bring me Little Water – on water in the garden
  13. Amsterdam… Spring Sunshine